Shared features between models 1537, 1697, 1708, and 1914 include:
- The Start and Back buttons found on the 360 controllers have been replaced with the Menu and View buttons, respectively.
- The triggers on the Xbox One controller have been mounted with individual rumble motors to enhance the gaming experience.
- The Xbox button now glows white when the controller is switched on.
- The X, Y, B, and A buttons are the only colored parts of the controller.
- USB port to connect to a PC or console - pre-1914 controllers use a MicroUSB port, while the 1914 controller uses USB-C.
Shared features between models 1708 and 1914:
- Model 1708 and 1914 controllers feature an integrated 3.5mm headphone jack (software controlled). However, compatibility is limited to the CTIA/AHJ standard.
- Users with headsets that do not use this standard will still need the headset adapter. However, this is less of a problem now that most newer headsets use the CTIA/AHJ standard.
- The back plastic on the controller has a different back texture compared to the outgoing Model 1708 controller.
- The front faceplate moves the X button cover to the faceplate. The plastic cover previously used has been size reduced and only covers the controller sync button.
- As with all Xbox controllers, there are multiple color options. The most common colors are white and black, with special edition colors and Xbox Design Lab options for an additional $20.
Features unique to the 1914:
- The Model 1914 controller adds a “Share” button to the controller.
- NOTE: This button only works on Xbox Series X, S, and Windows 10/11 PCs. It will not work on legacy systems but does not cause issues if the button is unsupported on your computer, or on original Xbox One or Series S consoles.
- This version of the controller uses USB-C instead of MicroUSB. Gone are the days of daughterboard replacements over a bad MicroUSB port.
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NOTE: The port change does mean a new cable is now required (and may break compatibility with accessories that use the USB port). However, it removes a common failure point on the older controllers. If you need a new cable, Microsoft sells a cable bundle (usually priced the same but can be $10 more).
- IMPORTANT: Use of a USB-C adapter IS NOT RECOMMENDED for firmware updates and syncing due to the risk of “bricking” the controller with firmware updates, potentially permanently if it goes really wrong.
- The D-pad has been modified to look and feel similar to the one on the Elite Series 2, but is a “fixed” design and cannot be swapped without disassembly.
This controller is a very popular choice for PC gaming since this controller works with more PC games natively out of the box. It is not DirectInput compatible.
Note: Windows 10/11 is required to use this feature.
Custom mapping can be used with this controller in the Xbox Accessories application, but maps cannot be copied to the controller. The maps must be synced across your systems, or recreated to use them on multiple computers.
While custom mapping is Windows 10/11 exclusive, the controller uses the default map on Windows 8.1 computers.
- NOTE: I DID NOT TEST THIS CONTROLLER ON Windows due to the EOL date being closer to comfort than I liked at the time I put this Wiki together.
- Bluetooth
- Ubuntu (21.04, 21.10, 22.04): Mess with the controller’s layout with steam to fix the random button triggers. Bluetooth has trouble reconnecting. If this occurs, select “forget this device“ and re-pair the controller.
- Xbox One Wireless Adapter (Available at Amazon, Best Buy, and GameStop)
- NOTE: Windows 8.1 users need the “legacy” Model 1713 adapter. The “slim” adapter is only compatible with Windows 10/11.
- USB-C
